Journal of the
American Geographical Society of New York Volume 3. Pages
283-299. January 1, 1872 IX. JOURNEY
THROUGH EASTERN MANTCHOORIA AND KOREA. By Walton Grinnell. [Paper]
READ JUNE 18th. 1871.
Mr.
President and Members of the
Geographical Society: In the remarks which I will have
the honor of presenting
to you this evening, I shall confine myself to that part
of Asia lying between
the great river Amoor, on the north and the frontier of
the Korea on the south,
embracing portions of Chinese and Russian Mantchooria,
between the Shan-a-lin
mountains and the Gulf of Tartary . The
spring and summer of 1870 I had spent
in cruising among the Kurile Islands and in a land
journey through Kamchatka
and north-east Siberia; but in September of that year I
found myself landed at
Vladivostok (the Port May of the English charts), on the
Gulf of Tartary, in
lat. 42° 50’. I had
two reasons for being dropped at
this rather outof-the-way spot. The first and prime
object of my whole journey
was to attempt to reach Samarkand and Central Asia from
some point on the Gulf
of Tartary, between the 37th° and 45th° parallels; and,
secondly, I had
cherished a hope of crossing the Korean frontier and of
learning something
regarding that strange, sealed empire and its
interesting population. In
neither of these attempts was I entirely successful,
though my failure by no
means convinces me of the impossibility of the
undertaking. By
the supplementary treaty of Aigun,
Count Mouravieff obtained for Russia possession of that
vast and fertile
territory lying south of the Amoor and between the Gulf
of Tartary and the
river Usuri, and with an energy and enterprise which
have characterized Russian
progress during the last ten years, she has encouraged
emigration, placed
steamers on the Usuri and Lake Hanka, built the port of
Vladivostok,
constructed a telegraph from the Baltic to the Pacific,
and enforced order
among the Manjoors and other tribes. A considerable
experience in traveling in
little-known countries had prepared me for the
exclamations which met me on all
sides. At Vladivostok: “What! cross Mantchooria and
Mongolia to Samarkand!
Impracticable, can’t be done; and as for the Korea,
absolutely impossible ! !” Faint-hearted
indeed must be the traveler who, having determined on an
attempt, is thwarted
from his purpose by such exclamations or the
discouraging advice of timid
friends. Vladivostok is an admirable harbor, and has the
advantage of being
closed only about six weeks by ice. It has a mixed
population of Manjoors,
Chinamen from the northern provinces, Korean refugees
and a few Russians, in
all, perhaps, 400 inhabitants. It has a small trade in
exporting sea-weed,
ginseng, etc., to China. The Russian government have
lately decided to remove
here the naval arsenal of Nikolaeivsk on the Amoor, and
during the present
summer it will be connected with China by the Danish
submarine cable, and with
Europe by the Siberian military telegraph. Thus it will
be seen that this
little port bids fair to “have a future,” and at no
distant day it may form the
base of operations directed against the Korea. On
landing at Vladivostok I was received
by the Russian authorities with that hearty hospitality
and goodwill which,
during a year’ s experience in many parts of the Russian
possessions, I have never
once found wanting; and on stating my objective point, I
was offered every
facility in the way of passes, escorts and
transportation. It was the middle of
September, however, before I was prepared to start, and
through the courtesy of
the commandant of Vladivostok I was landed by a Russian
man-of-war at the mouth
of the Siphon, a river flowing from the water-shed of
the Shan-a-lin mountains
into the Bay of Amoor. The Siphon is a shallow stream
flowing through one of
the most beautiful valleys imaginable. During the first
day’s ride I met no
traces of cultivation, but tracks of big game met us on
every side; tigers,
swine, panthers and deer are numerous, and the river and
lagoons were alive
with wild fowl. In the course of a few days I arrived at
Nikolskoi, a Russian
post on the Siphon, about sixty versts from its mouth.
Two years before my
visit, this post was attacked and destroyed by a band of
Manjoor outlaws, but
at present a guard of Cossacks give it some protection.
It was here that I
first learned of several considerable villages of
Koreans scattered in the
fertile valleys to the westward, and I at once
determined to visit them and, if
possible, to reside some weeks with these people before
crossing into the Korea
proper. Here
again I was befriended by the
Russian officials, and one bright morning in October I
found myself well
mounted and with a Korean guide on my way to a village
of 500 souls, said to be
situated about forty versts to the west, near the base
of the Shan-a-lin
mountains. It
was a new field, full of interest.
Many centuries ago this portion of Mantchooria formed a
part of the Korea, and
the numerous remains of walled cities and forts attest
the power and
civilization of the Korea at that period. Our trail, on
leaving Nikolskoi, led
us through a finely preserved Korean remain — a
rectangular fortress, with well
shaped walls of earth thirty or thirty-five feet high,
and protected by a moat
and two outer ditches. The work covered about six acres,
and had four gateways,
guarded by curtains of earth-work. I afterward examined
this work more
thoroughly, measured its side, and saw some stone
statues, and elaborately
carved fragments of columns. The
valley of the Siphon is a promising
field for colonization. Corn and millet grow
luxuriously; and the Manjoor, even
with his rude cultivation, produces bountiful crops. During
my stay in the Siphon district
vast tracks of grass lands were on fire, and I was often
compelled to make long
detours to escape the flames. Toward
nightfall we arrived at the first
village of Koreans. It was a thrifty little hamlet on
the hill-slope,
straggling down to the valley below. The general effect
was purely Japanese;
the grouping of the houses, their structure (except the
detached chimney), the
neat fencing of interlaced boughs, and the well-laid
thatch, formed a marked
contrast with the miserable cabin of the North China
peasant, or the mud-built
fanzar of the Manjoor. My
guide was soon surrounded by friends,
and so presented me to the chief, or head man of the
village, that we were most
cordially received. On
entering the house we found the whole
family squatted on the matting. The women were engaged
in mending their slender
wardrobes, and men were fashioning clay bowls, which
were neatly done, and
graceful in shape. A
Korean house, at least those of the
Northern provinces, is built of a light framework of
bamboo, or reeds, fastened
together by cords, and filled in with clay. The outside
is covered with a light
planking; and the roof formed of thick thatch, or
sun-burned tiles. Connected
with the house, though standing some distance from it,
is the chimney, formed
of a hollow tree. The interior is generally divided into
two or three
apartments, the floor being raised some two feet, and
heated from underneath by
a system of flues, which connects the fire-place with
the chimney. By this
arrangement these flimsy houses are made most
comfortable, even during the
severe winter of this region. The Korean eats, sleeps
and works on this heated platform,
which is covered by a matting of straw, or split reeds.
I was given a most
excellent supper of fresh venison and boiled millet; and
I was charmed by the
refined and cleanly manner in which it was served. I had
taken the precaution
to bring with me some Chinese tea; a gift of a few
handsful of which placed me
on the very pinnacle of popularity; for tea is a luxury
almost unknown to these
poor refugees. There
are about 5,000 Koreans settled
north of the Tamen, principally peasants from the
Northern province, and,
consequently, knowing but little of the Southern parts
of their empire. I spent
some weeks in different villages, and, through my guide,
who spoke a little
Russian, I continually questioned the Koreans regarding
their country and its
customs. The result of this questioning, and of my own
observations, I have
condensed into the following notes: The
Korea is, as we know, the peninsula
which forms the north shore of the Yellow Sea, and lies
between 35° and 43° N.,
and 125° and 129° E. from Greenwich. It has an area of
about 81,000 square
miles, and a population of about 6,000,000. Of the
geography of this country we
know next to nothing. Indeed, the coast line is but
imperfectly described on
our charts; and all attempts to communicate with its
people, or to land on
their shores, have been successfully resisted. The
Korea is an independent empire. It is
true, an annual tribute is sent to the Emperor of China;
but this is by no
means a token of actual dependence. The empire is
divided into eight provinces.
The capital, or royal city, is Si-oo-ri, called, on our
maps, King-ki-tao; the
name given it by the Chinese, and one not in use among
the Koreans. There are many
large cities; but in the north the population is neither
so numerous nor so
cultivated as in the south and central provinces. Many
of the cities have walls
of stone thirty or forty feet high; and there are
castles or forts in different
parts of the empire. Soldiers are numerous, and armed
with gingalls and bows;
and iron and chain armor is still in use. Cannon, great
and small, of brass and
iron, are mounted on the castle and city walls. I could
learn of no wars nor
rebellions of late years. The climate is magnificent,
and cotton grows as far
north as 40°. Hemp and flax are largely cultivated, and,
from the cloths and
ropes I saw, they must be of excellent quality. Tobacco
is extensively grown
and incessantly used; a pipe, with a Korean, being as
much part of his costume
as his jacket. Rice is found in the Northern province;
but a species of very
small millet seems to be the staple food of the lower
classes. Paper is made
from the bark of a tree (a species of mulberry); and I
saw many qualities, all
good, and some finer than any I had seen in Japan. The
Korean, like the
Japanese, uses paper for everything. The windows of his
house, the walls of his
rooms, his waterproof overcoat and his umbrella, his
pocket handkerchief and
his pillow-case, are all made of this paper, and it has
many advantages. The
Koreans excel in metal work; and nearly all household
utensils are made of a
composition resembling bell metal, and very light
colored, from the great alloy
of silver. I saw
but few specimens of lacquer, which
was of inferior quality. The carpenters and joiners are
very clever, and use
tools similar in shape to those of China, though of
better finish. The
universal, national dress is white,
of silk or cotton with the richer classes, and of hemp
or bleached grass cloth
with the poorer. The dress of the women consists of a
skirt or petticoat,
padded or quilted in winter, reaching nearly to the
ankles. Underneath they
wear a garment not unlike Turkish trowsers. The upper
dress is a jacket, or
bodice, fastened at the neck and reaching but half way
to the waist, and
tightly laced, compressing to the utmost the upper part
of the body. They wear
large chignons. Otherwise the hair is simply dressed. I
noticed, even with the
poor people with whom I lived, gold and silver rings,
and long skewer-like hair
pins of the same metals. The men wear a short jacket,
like the Japanese Kimino,
and loose breeches, gathered in at the knee. For shoes,
both sexes wear a
pointed sandal of straw or cotton twine. The
Koreans marry at thirteen or fourteen;
and I have seen a girl of fourteen with her two children
on her back. The
men’s hair is worn drawn tightly to
the top of the head, where it is tied in a large knot.
The boys wear a pig-tail
like the Chinese, which is cut off on their marriage and
sold for making
chignons. For a head covering they wear a hat made of
open worked horse-hair. The
type of the Korean is purely Mongol,
though of lighter complexion and more robust figure than
the Chinese or
Japanese. The women are often very pretty, with well
shaped hands and feet, and
they are most graceful in all their movements. In manner
they are exceedingly
pleasing and reserved. I have never been with a tribe,
from the Tchuktchees of
Behring Straits to the Steppes of Patagonia, so rude or
simple as to be
ignorant of the gentle art of flirting; but your Korean
young lady is the most
accomplished of coquettes. The women seem well treated,
and do no hard work,
and the children are most tenderly cared for. In short,
from my own experience,
the Koreans are a thrifty, brave and honest people, with
considerable
civilization and much good nature. Education is widely
diffused; and I did not
meet, even among those poor villagers, a single man who
could not read and
write. In reading, they articulate in a sing-song
fashion, connecting words and
sentences, and making no stops or rests. The literature
of the Korea is said to
be very extensive; and the jealousy of the government is
so great that any one
sending a book or manuscript across the frontier is
punished with death.
Nevertheless some works in Korean can be bought at
Pekin. The works on history,
philosophy and the sciences, are printed in the Chinese
characters; while all
lighter literature, such as poetry and romances, are in
the native Korean
letter. The
language of the Korea is
alphabetical, and composed of 187 letters; it differs
entirely from Chinese or
Japanese, and has many curved strokes and circles. In
simplicity, it resembles
the Kata-Kara of Japan. When spoken, one is struck by
the softness of
pronunciation, and by the musical modulation of the
voice in strong contrast
with the harshness of the Japanese, and guttural
emphasis of the Chinese. The
domestic animals of the Korea are the
same as those of northern China, but the horses I saw
were much finer than the
Mongolian ponies. Game abounds, from tigers downwards.
The system of
cultivation is, as in China, extensive and thorough, and
the roads and other
means of communication are described as numerous and
well kept. The popular
religion is Buddist, but many of the villages I have
been among have lost their
faith, though a joss picture forms part of the furniture
of their houses. The
Russians have made a few converts at Hadirostok The
trade with China has of
late years greatly diminished, and, with Japan, has
entirely ceased, owing to
the jealousy and restrictions of the Korean government.
It
has often been fancied that the Korea
was exceedingly rich in the precious metals. I have seen
silver plates and
golden ornaments from there, but I see no foundation for
the idea of
superabundance of these metals. The villagers told me
that gold and silver were
held in the same value, and that neither were used as
money, except near the
capital, where they had heard of blocks of silver,
probably for trade with the
Chinese. The money of the country is of iron and copper,
similar to the money
of China. The
general aspect of the Korea is
mountainous, the greatest elevations being in the north,
and sometimes rising
to 6,000 or 8,000 feet and approaching close to the sea.
As we sail along the
coast to the southward this range appears to leave the
coast and to tend to the
south-west. Of the water system, the Ya-la river, which
probably takes its rise
from the water-shed of the southern spur of the
Shan-a-lin mountains and falls
into the Yellow Sea near the Chinese frontier, is the
most considerable, and is
navigated by junks of the first class for sixty or
eighty miles. The second
river in point of size is the Tumen, which forms the
northern boundary of the
empire. Where I met it, at the Russian frontier, it is
200 yards wide; but the
bar, which has been examined by the Russians, and I
believe by the English
also, has only about six feet of water, and is exposed
to the swell of the
Japan Sea. The Tumen is frozen many months in the year,
thus forming a bridge
over which the poor people with whom I lived, driven by
famine from their own
country, escaped to the protection of China and Russia.
The jealousy of the
Korea of the inviolability of the empire is so great
that during the last
century all the villages, farms and houses on their
banks of the river were
ordered to be destroyed, and death was the punishment
for crossing from shore
to shore. There
are many harbors on the east coast,
and ships passing up the Gulf of Tartary have often
found good shelter, but the
whole coast requires examination before it is safe of
approach. Of the
Archipelago, to the southwest, we know absolutely
nothing, which is doubly to
be regretted, as the merchant ships from Nenchiang to
Japan are often driven
into this bight and find themselves surrounded by
unknown dangers. The
problem of opening this strange
empire to western commerce has been tried by France and
Russia, and both
attempts ended in discouraging failure. That the efforts
of this country, now
being made through Admiral Rodgers and Mr. Low, our
Chinese minister, will
prove more successful, I greatly doubt. Suppose we
appear off the coast with a
powerful fleet and succeed in landing, we have no power
to assure our
communications or of reaching the government at Livori,
neither can we force
the officials of the capital to come to our ships and to
treat with us. The
Korea is as invulnerable as China.
Her capital, all her great cities, and her wealth and
industry, are away from
the coast. We cannot force the government into receiving
us, by bombarding a
few harmless fishing villages, and it will not listen to
conciliatory
diplomacy. No, if we wish to sell our gray shirtings and
our repeating rifles,
if we covet her gold, her copper and her coal, and if we
think her advantageous
to swallow, we shall have to go to Sioori, and to tell
the Emperor so, in his
own palace; and to do that we should have at least
10,000 soldiers for our
traveling companions. The opening of Japan was by no
means an analogous case.
Our triumph there was due to the personal courage,
persistency and diplomatic
adaptation of circumstances of our minister, Mr.
Townsend Harris. In
concluding these notes on the Korea, I
would remark that I believe a determined traveler, who
is ready to spend six or
eight years in the exploration of that country, can
accomplish his object by
residing in the villages of refugees, spending a year or
two in studying the
language, and in making short excursions across the
frontier. On his final
attempt he must expect to be made prisoner, but by tact
and knowledge of the
language, he may make himself so valuable as to be
detained or even employed by
the government, and like Will Adams, the first
Englishman in Japan, live to
give a thorough account of the country. The results are
quite worthy of the
risks attending the attempt. On
leaving the Korean villages, of which
I have visited several, I made a detour from the trail
to visit a hill fortress
of Korean origin, of which I had often heard. Differing
from the work I had seen at
Nikolskoi, this fort was perched on the crest of a
considerable hill, which
here rises from the valley. Its walls were well defined,
and at the four angles
were towers, or high traverses, rising fifteen or twenty
feet above the main
wall. The extreme antiquity of these remains was
attested by the full grown
forest trees growing on the walls and within the
inclosure. Great quantities of
small rectangular bits of iron have been found here by
the natives, which I
immediately recognized as portions of scale armor,
similar to that worn by the
Japanese. I found the longer side to measure 2,400 feet,
and the lesser 752
feet. The
country south of the Siphon
completely changes in character; the extensive plains
and low, unwooded hills
give place to rugged forest-clad mountains, intersected
by numerous valleys,
and swift-flowing torrents falling into the Bay of
Amoor. On
the hills we started herds of deer,
and as we forded the streams, we literally rode through
shoals of salmon. These
fish, after entering a river never return, but, mounting
to the head-waters,
are left by the receding current to die, and become food
for the bears, which
here abound. On
the 12th of November I reached the
beautiful valley of Mon-go-gaile, where the Russians
propose planting a colony.
A cart-road of Mantchoor origin intersects the valley,
and a bridge, the first
I had seen, spans the river. This, with the ruins of a
few fanzars and millet
mills, are the only signs of its former population. It is
said that valley was abandoned
because of the ravages of tigers. The Manjoors assert
that a tiger will never
pass over burnt ground; but this precaution does not
prevent the loss of
cattle, even when inclosed in the strong high palisades
which are always to be
found on a Manjoor farm in this district. The
climate of these valleys is much
warmer than the surrounding country; all cereals grow
luxuriantly. I passed
several groves of cork trees, with a bark of four or
five inches, and wild
grapevines interlace the forest. On
returning to Mkolskoi, which I did at
the end of November, I found the Russian bishop of
Pekin, who had made the journey
from thence via Neoukden and Ningorta, and whose
wonderful facility in the
Chinese and Manjoor dialect, and knowledge of Northern
China, gave his opinions
great weight. On conversing with this distinguished
traveler, regarding my plan
of crossing Mantchooria and Mongolia to the desert of
Gobi, he assured me of
its impracticability, and, moreover, stated that from
information he had gained
from the Chinese of those districts, the country was but
thinly settled and
comparatively uninteresting. It is very cruel to one’s
pride, and very
demoralizing to one’s stamina, to abandon a long matured
plan; still, traveling
is not a worthy occupation if used as a mere means to
display courage, daring
or endurance. The true traveler struggles through
difficulties to accomplish a
denned object, and to return with definite results. At
length I determined to abandon the
Korea, and the idea of reaching Samarkand by
Mantchooria, and resolved to push
to the Amoor; from thence reach Irkutsk, in Central
Siberia, with all possible
speed, and from there work down to Samarkand, through
the desert of Gobi. With
this idea in view, I left Nikolskoi on the 6th of
December. The
thermometer stood at 3° F.; our road
was due north and the weather was piercingly cold;
besides, I was in no way
prepared for such a temperature, and I had 120 versts to
make to reach Lake
Hanka, where I could hope to find some fur clothing. The
road was detestable,
and the country most dreary, a rolling temdra
or wet prairie. The eye searched in vain for a tree, a
shrub or a blade of
grass, and the only verdure was a long moss, dead and
whitened by frost. I
passed only one Mantchoor Fanzar, in which were two old
Chinese, self-exiles,
who buried themselves in this dreary region years and
years ago to escape
Chinese justice. More miserable specimens of wrecked
humanity I never saw, and
their Fanzar or house was as tottering and decrepit as
themselves.
Nevertheless, I was heartily glad to share with them
their warm shelter, with
its bugs and vermin, from which I received marked
attentions. I
passed several skulls and human bones
of victims in some battle, and the plain was strewn with
the whitened remains
of deer and other game. On
nearing Hanka, the Shan-a-lin
mountains approach close to the lake; but the country to
the south and east is
monotonous and prairie-like. The
Russians have established a port at
Kama-Ribaloff, on a bluff overlooking the lake, and
during the summer it
receives supplies by steamer from the Amoor, by the
Usuri and Sangashi. By this
magnificent system of rivers, Vladivostok, on the Gulf
of Tartary, is in almost
direct water communication with Irkutsk, a distance of
over 3,500 miles. Lake
Hanka is situated between latitude
44° 30’ and 45° 20’, and longitude 131° 50’ and 132° 30’
(aprox.), and has an
average depth of ten fathoms. The boundary between
Russia and China crosses it
from south-east to north-west. The shores, except in the
vicinity of Kama, are
low and marshy, and I traveled for ten days on the
Chinese portion without
meeting a sign of human habitation. The lake was firmly
frozen. Once I crossed
from the Russian frontier to the Chinese shore, over the
ice — a most arduous
undertaking, for great hummocks, sometimes forming
ridges of fifteeen to twenty
feet high, impeded our progress, and I lost one of my
horses in an air-hole. I had
managed to get a good outfit of
furs at Kama-Ribaloff, and with my bearskins for bed and
cover, I did not
suffer from the cold, though the thermometer averaged
5°. On
December 14th, I arrived at the mouth
of the Sangachi, a river which flows from the lake, and
after a north-east
course of 200 miles, falls into the Usuri. The Sangashi
is a deep, narrow
stream, with a strong current, and never frozen at its
head. The country along
its banks is a vast sundra, or marsh, almost impassable.
No snow had yet
fallen, and the ice was not in a fit condition for
sledging, so I was compelled
to plod through this dreary waste for two days before
reaching the Kossack
settlement of Makora, on the Sangashi, near its junction
with the Usuri. The
character of the country here changes, and the
interminable marshes of the
upper river give place to wooded slopes and undulating
banks. I
struck the Usuri about 150 miles from
its source, and found it a magnificent stream of 500
feet wide. The
ice was reported in good condition,
and having procured a sledge, I had the cheering
prospect of easy traveling for
350 miles, and of meeting occasional villages of Chinese
and Kossacks. The
Usuri flows through a rich, well
wooded country; the banks often rise to considerable
elevation, and on the
Russian shore we passed several villages of Kossacks,
who cultivate a small
patch of ground, and hunt the sable, fox, bear and
tiger, which abound in this
section. The sable of the Usuri is not so valuable as
that of Kamchatka, though
a good skin readily brings from twenty to twenty-five
rubles at Hebarofka, or
other large trading-posts, and a tiger skin is worth
from sixty to 100 rubles. The
left bank is occupied by Chinese and
Goldi. The Goldi are a tribe of Mongol origin, long
inhabiting this country,
and spreading as far as the lower Amoor and the country
of the Ghilasks. They
have no written language; a religion and customs
different from the Chinese;
and are generally fishermen and hunters. They are a
peaceful, hard-working, and
stupid race, short of stature, and with features a cross
between the Chinese
and Esquimaux. We
often passed solitary little temples
or Buddhist shrines, and I stopped at many of the
Chinese farms. They generally
have large, well built Fanzars, with courtyards like
those in Northern China.
Much ground is under cultivation, and they seem well
supplied with horses and
cattle. In winter they use the Narta, or light sledge,
with dogs, as a means of
transportation. I
passed a night at one fanzar, at which
there were at least twenty persons. The head of the
family was a fine old
Chinaman, who, being rich, had surrounded himself with
many of the luxuries of
his country. His wife and children were dressed in rich
silks, and wore
bracelets of gold and silver, and ear-rings of jade. The
elder members of the family smoked
opium incessantly, and it was late in the evening before
they fell over on the
ka-hu in a drowsy sleep. During the night they would
wake and the porcelain pipes
and little oil lamp were always in request. For a few
silver rubles I bought
from these people a white sable skin, a variety I had
never seen before, and
one much prized in China and Russia. As we
proceeded, the Russian settlements
became more numerous, and Boussi and Kasakiricha are
well built villages. For
the last 100 versts the banks are high and bluff-like,
and at forty versts from
its mouth the Usuri divides into two branches, the one
flowing into the Amoor
at the port of Kahebrafka, and the other taking a more
westerly direction, and
also empties into the Amoor. During the last three days
of my journey on the
Usuri the thermometer, at 8 a.m., ranged to 32° Fahr.,
and both the Imisick, or
driver, and myself suffered from frozen ears, noses and
hands. I arrived at
Hebarofka (which is a place of 600 or 700 souls, and a
winter station for the
Amoor steamers), on the 23d of December. The
Usuri rises between 44° and 45°
north, and has a length of 530 miles. It is navigable
during the summer months
by small steamers for 350 miles. Gold is found in the
small streams flowing
into it, and the Siberian government are pushing
emigration to its banks;
still, the long and severe winters will prevent any
great agricultural
development, though as a mining district it may rival
the Amoor, or even the
untold riches of Lera. It is a curious fact that tigers
are found in this cold
country, and, before my arrival, one was killed near the
house in which I
lived, in the heart of the village of Hebarofka. Tigers
have been traced as far
north as 51°, and hardly a day passed that I did not see
fresh tracks between
Lake Hanka and the Amoor. The
Amoor at Hebarofka is about four
miles wide, and from hence to the sea flows through a
low, unproductive
country, thinly populated by a few tribes of Ghilasks
and Goldi. My
journey from Hebarofka was made over
the frozen Amoor and the Shilka, and across the Baikal
Lake to Irkutsk, where I
arrived by the end of January, 1871. The distance is
about 2,400 miles. The
section between Hebarofka and Irkutsk
possesses much grand scenery and many interesting
features, but it has already
been ably described in works on the Amoor and Siberia,
and I doubt if I can add
any information of importance to those descriptions.
That portion of Russian Montchooria
between Castres and Olga Bays is as yet untrodden by
white men, and the
inhabitants have long been regarded by the Manjoors as
an unconquerable race of
savages. Mantchooria
is the “out west” of China,
and a large immigration is constantly arriving and
settling in the fertile
valley of the Sangashi. Numbers of horses and cattle are
sent to the south, and
considerable gold dust finds its way into China from the
gold washings of the
Shan-a-lin mountains. The
Russian colonization of her territory
is a system of forced military emigration; small
colonies are placed every
thirty or forty versts, without regard to the adaptation
of the country, but
rather to assure communication between the larger
military posts. These
colonies are in no case self-supporting, but are
supplied by the government
with flour and other rations; and they do but little for
the general
development of the country; nevertheless one cannot but
admire that system
which has planted a village every few versts, from
Europe to the Pacific,
through one of the most inhospitable countries on earth.
It
has been supposed that the Russian
occupation of Mantchoria and the Shaga-lin Islands was
but a part of a
systematic advance on Korea and Japan. From my
observation on the spot and at
St. Petersburg, I am convinced that Russia has no
present designs on either
country. Holding
the Upper Amoor, the possession
of its mouth and free navigation of its waters became
almost a necessity; and a
nation having so extensive a seaboard on the Pacific
naturally required a safe
port as a refuge for their fleets. Nickolskoi is
comparatively useless, for the
navigation of the Gulf of Tartary is tedious and
dangerous, and only twelve
feet can be carried across the bar of the Amoor; in
Vladivostok, however, Russia
has found a commodious harbor within three days’ sail of
Shanghai, and with
river communication to the very heart of her Siberian
possessions. In
conclusion, Mr. President and ladies
and gentlemen, allow me to express my thanks for the
attention with which you
have listened to my rather dry remarks, and to express
the hope that, ere long,
some daring traveler will lift the veil which hangs over
the mysteries of Korea
and Central Asia. |