A Chronicle
of the Spirit of Tea 1
Picking the leaves 2
Drying the tea 3
Discerning the quality of tea 4
Storing tea 5
Managing the fire 6
Classifying boiling water 7 Old leaves
and
young buds in making tea 8
Infusing leaf tea 9
Putting tea into the teapot 10
Drinking tea 11
Fragrance 12
Color 13
Taste 14
Losing tea’s true nature by contamination Tea of itself
has true fragrance,
color, and taste. If tea has been contaminated even
once, it loses its genuine
quality. If the water is brackish or there is some
foreign substance in the
tea, or a trace of fruit in the tea cups, the tea
loses its true quality. 15
Tea that has deteriorated must not be used 16
The grades of spring water 17
Well water is not appropriate for tea 18
Storing water 19
Tea utensils 20
The tea cups 21
The wiping cloth 22
The tea caddy (this chapter is found in the
Chinese texts but in none
of the Korean versions) 23
The rules governing tea 24
Epilogue In the spring of
1830 a sick monk
in a hermitage, snow on the windows, hugging the
stove, composed this epilogue. Cho Ŭi 茶神傳
採茶之候 A
late Ming dynasty work on tea, the Zhang Poyüan
Chalu 張伯淵茶錄
(ca. 1595),
is usually ascribed to Zhang Yüan 張源 (dates unknown). The
putative author was a recluse known only to have “done
nothing” but whose
learning was “broad” and satisfied himself by practicing
tea. All the
information on Zhang Yüan is contained in a preface to
the Chalu by Gu
Dadian (嘈湮萎 ca. 1568),
an artist from Suzhou
who learned from Zhang's "hundreds of thousands of
words" on tea. It
seems that this text was then simply integrated as
section 14, 採茶論 Caichalun in the Tseng-pu wan-pao
ch'üan-shu 增補萬寶全書 the Encyclopedia
of
a Myriad Wonders compiled on imperial command in
1595 by Mao
Huan-wen tseng-pu 毛煥文增補. This would have
been the source of the text of which Ch’o-ŭi
made a copy during his visit to Ch’ilbul, as he
indicates in the last lines of
the work. There are small variations between the two
Chinese versions and the
copy made by Ch’o-ŭi and these are indicated in notes;
it is usually possible
to identify a given variant reading as erroneous,
needing emendation from
another version. (Notes: c =
Chasinjŏn. m = Manbojŏnsŏ.
o = other Chinese texts. e = modern emendation. x = no
character in text. [] =
rejected reading. ( ) = emended reading ) 1頌
採茶 Picking the leaves 採茶之候
貴及其時 Regarding
the season for picking tea, choosing the right time is
very important. 太早則[香](味)1不全 遲則神散 If it is
too early, the flavor of the tea will not be complete;
if it is too late, the
essence of the tea will have faded. 以穀雨前五
日爲上 The five days before
Kog-u (April 20th-21st) are reckoned to be best, 後五日次之 再五日又次之 the five days after
Kog-u are second best, and the five days after that are
third best. 茶[非](芽)2紫者爲上 而皺者次之 Russet-tinted tea buds
are the best, wrinkled leaves come next, 團葉者次之
光[而](面)3如篠葉者最下 round leaves are next,
and shiny leaves that look like those of bamboo are
worst. 徹夜無雲 浥露[采](採)4者爲上 Tea leaves which are
soaked with dew after a cloudless night are best; 日中[采](採)4者次之 leaves picked by day in
bright sunshine are next; 陰[兩](雨)5[下](中)6不宜[采](採)4 leaves must not be
picked on a cloudy or rainy day. 産谷中者爲
上
竹林下者次之 Tea leaves from a valley
are best; tea leaves from under a bamboo grove are next; 爛石(中)7者又次之 黃砂中(者)8又次之 leaves from
stony soil are next and
leaves growing in ordinary loamy soil are next. 1 [c香](m味)
2 [cm非](e芽) 3 [c而](m面)
4 [c采mx](o採) 5 [cm兩](e雨)
6 [cm下](e中) 7 (m中 c
x) 8
(cmx e者) 2頌
造
茶 Drying the tea 新採 揀去老葉 及[柀](枝)1梗碎屑 Old leaves, stalks and
broken leaves are removed from freshly picked leaves, 鍋廣二尺四
寸
將茶一斤半焙之 then a pound and a half
or so of leaves at a time is fired in an iron pan about
two feet across. 候鍋極熱
始下茶急炒 Once the pan is really
hot, begin to fire the tea rapidly, 火不可緩 and do not allow the
heat to diminish. 待熱(熟)方退火
徹入[簁](篩)2中 After waiting for the
leaves to soften, the fire is removed and they are
transferred to a sieve 輕團[枷](娜)3數遍 復下鍋中 in which they are
repeatedly rubbed lightly with a circular movement of
the hands. The leaves are
then put back into the pan 漸漸減火焙
乾爲度 and slowly fired at a
lower heat, so that they dry correctly. 中有玄微
難以言顯 There
is
a mystery in
all that which it is hard to put into words. 火候均停 色香(全)4美 If the heating is done
evenly, the color and scent of the tea will be
beautiful, 玄微未究
神味俱妙 and although the
subtle mystery is
not expressed in words the wonderful taste of the tea
will be full of it. 1 [c柀](e枝) 2 [c簁](e篩) 3 [c枷](e娜) 4 (cmx e全) 3頌
辨
茶 Discerning the quality
of tea 茶之妙
在乎始造之精 The quality of a tea
depends on the care taken in making it, 藏之得法 泡
之得宜 on proper storage, and
on correctly brewing it after boiling the water. 憂劣[宜](定)1乎始鍋
淸濁係[水](乎)2(末)3火 Good or poor quality
depends on what happens initially in the pan; clear or
turbid depends on the
last firing. 火烈香淸 鍋[乘](寒)4神
倦 If the fire is at the
right temperature, the fragrance will be clear; if the
pan is cold, the spirit
of the tea is destroyed. 火猛生焦
柴[疎](疏)5失翠 When the fire is strong,
the tea is burnt; when firewood is insufficient, the
leaves lose their green
color; 久延則過熟 when they stay too long
in the pan, the leaves are overdone; 早起[郤](却)6[辺](還)7生 when removed too early,
the leaves are still raw. 熟則犯黃 生
則著黑 順那則甘
逆那則[溢](澁)8 If it is made according
to the rules, the tea will be sweet; if the rules are
broken, the tea will be
excessively tart. 帶白點者無妨 White spots on the
leaves are not a problem; 絶焦(點)9者最勝 properly roasted leaves
are always the best. 1 [cm宜](e定) 2 [c水](e乎) 3 (cx m末) 4 [c乘](e寒) 5 [cm疎](e疏) 6 [c郤](e却) 7 [c辺](e還) 8 [c溢](e澁) 9 (cmx e點) 4頌 藏
茶 Storing tea 造茶始乾
先盛舊盒中 After the tea has been
made and the first drying is done, fill a previously
used tea-box with it 外以紙封口
過三日 and close the top of the
box with paper, then let three days elapse. 俟其性復
復以微火焙極乾 When it has recovered
its quality, it is heated again over a gentle fire until
totally dry, 待冷 貯壜中 then left until it is
cold, when it is placed in a jar. 輕輕築實
以箬櫬緊 The tea is very lightly
packed, and covered with tightly packed bamboo husks. 將花[筍](笋)1箬及紙 數重封 [緊](紮)2罎口 The mouth of the jar
should be sealed with several layers of light bamboo
husks or paper, 上以火煨磚
冷定壓之 pressed down with a
brick that has been heated in the fire and allowed to
cool. 置茶育中 The jar should be put in
a storage container 切勿臨風易
冷 It must never be exposed
to wind, for in that case it easily becomes cold; 近火先黃 if put too close
to a fire, it soon
goes yellow. 1. [c筍](e笋)
2 [cm緊](e紮) 5頌 火
候 Managing the fire 烹茶旨要
火候爲先 When it comes to brewing
tea, care with the fire is the most important factor. 爐火通紅
茶瓢始上 When the fire of the
stove is burning red, the teakettle is set on the fire 扇起要輕疾 and the fire is fanned
lightly and fast; 待有聲
稍稍重疾 while waiting for sound
from the water, one should fan more heavily and faster. 斯文武之候
也 These are the
characteristics of gentle and strong, exemplified in the
two branches of
society, literary and military. 過於文則水
性柔 If the literary side
dominates, (if the fire is too gentle) the water becomes
gentle 柔則(水)1爲茶降 and gentle water yields
to the tea’s spirit. 過於武則火
性烈 If the military side
dominates, (if the fire is too hot) the fire will be too
strong, 烈則茶爲水
制 and if the water is too
strong the tea will be repressed by the water’s spirit. 皆不足於中
和 Both show a lack of
balance and harmony, 非烹家要旨
也 so are not
suitable for a maker of
tea. 1 (cmx e水
added) 6頌 湯
辨 Classifying boiling
water 湯有三大辨
十五小辨 When classifying boiling
water, there are three major distinctions and fifteen
minor distinctions. 一曰形辨
二曰聲辨 三曰氣辨 The first involves
classifying by the appearance; the second involves
classifying by the sound;
and the third involves classifying by the steam. 形爲內辨
聲爲外辨 氣爲捷辨
Classifying by the
appearance is known as inner evaluation; classifying by
the sound is known as
outer evaluation; and classifying by the steam is known
as rapid evaluation. 如蟹眼,嘏眼,魚眼,連珠 皆爲萌湯 The sight of crabs’
eyes, prawns’ eyes, fish eyes, or strings of beads in
the water all show that
it is still not ready. 直如勇沸
如騰波鼓浪 When the boiling water
rises straight up and shows rising drumlike waves, 水氣全消
方是純熟 and the bubbles have
completely disappeared, it is said to be perfectly
ready. 如初聲
轉聲 振聲 驟聲 皆爲萌湯 Initial sounds, rumbling
sounds, vibrating sounds, and galloping sounds all show
that the water is still
not ready. 直至無聲
方是結熟 When the boiling water
has no sound, it is said to be conclusively ready. 如氣 浮
一縷 二縷 三四縷 When the steam rises in
threads, one or two threads, three or four threads, 亂不分
氤氳 亂縷 皆爲萌湯 which then get all
tangled up in complete confusion, this shows that the
water is not yet ready. 直至氣直冲
貫
方是經熟 When the steam rises
straight it is purely ready. 7頌 湯用老嫩 About
old leaves and young buds when making tea 蔡君謨 湯用嫩 而不用老 When Cai
Jünmo (Cai Xiang,
1012-1067) made tea, he used young buds, not
old, tough leaves. 盖因古人製茶 Generally,
when
making tea in ancient times 造則必碾 碾則必磨 磨則必羅 people
used a stone mortar to grind the tea leaves; then they
used a sieve. 則[味](茶)1爲飄塵飛粉矣 In
such a process the broken particles and tea dust would
fly away. 於是和劑
印作龍(鳳)2團 At
that time they made tea bricks with fragrant additives
and stamped them with
dragon and phoenix patterns. 則見湯而茶神[硬](便)3浮 When
they made tea they could see the essence of the tea
suspended and afloat 此用嫩[血](而)4不用老也 because
they used young, not old leaves (to make powdered tea). 今時製茶 不假羅[碾](磨)5 全具[旡](元)6體 However,
when making tea nowadays, people do not use the stone
mortar and the sieve but
simply use entire tea leaves left intact, 此湯須純熟
茶神始發也 so
the tea-making must be extremely well-done in order to produce the essence of the tea. 故曰湯須五沸 茶奏三奇 Therefore, it is
said, “The boiling
water has to be purely ready, then the essence of tea
begins to emerge.” 1 [c味](m茶)
2 (cx m鳳)
3[c硬](m便) 4 [c血](m而)
5[c碾](m磨) 6[c旡](m元) 8頌 泡 法 泡茶法 Infusing leaf
tea 探湯純熟
便取起 After
checking that the water is purely ready, it should at
once be taken off the
fire. 先注少許壺中
袪湯冷氣傾出 First
pour a little water into the teapot to warm and clean it
then pour that water
away; 然後 投茶 [葉](茶)1多寡宜酌 put
tea leaves in, estimating the appropriate amount 不可過中失正 and
taking care not to lose a moderate balance. 茶重則味若香況(沈) If
there is too much tea, the taste will be bitter and the
fragrance will be
strong; 水勝則色淸[味](氣)2寡 if
there is too much water, the color will be weak. 兩壺後 又用冷水湯滌 After
using the teapot twice it should be washed with cold
water 使壺凉潔
不則滅茶香矣 to
make it clean and cool. If that is not done, the tea
fragrance will decrease. 礶熟則茶神不健 If
the teapot is too hot, the mystery of the tea will not
develop; 壺淸(則)3水性[當](常)4靈 if
the pot is clean and cool, the quality of the water will
be much improved. 稍[候](俟)5茶水冲和 然後 [冷](分)6釃布飮 After
waiting a little until the tea and water have fully
blended, once it has cooled
strain it, then drink. 釃不宜早 飮不宜遲 However,
straining should not be done too soon and drinking
should not be delayed too
late. 早則茶神未發 遲則妙馥先消 If it is too
soon, the spirit of
the tea will not have emerged, and if it is drunk too
late, the wonderful
fragrance will already have disappeared. 1[c葉](m茶)
2[c味](m氣) 3(cx m則)
4[c當](m常) 5[c候](m俟)
6[c冷](m分) 9頌 投 茶 Putting
tea into the teapot 投茶[行](有)1序 毋失其宜 The
tea leaves should be put into the teapot in an orderly
way, this must not be
neglected. 先茶[湯後](後湯)2 曰下投 Putting
tea leaves in first then filling the teapot with hot
water is called Putting
Beneath; 湯半下茶
復以湯滿 曰中投 filling
the pot half full of hot water first, then adding tea
leaves and finally
filling up the remaining half of the pot with hot water
is called Putting in
the Middle; 先湯後茶 曰上投 filling
the pot with hot water and then adding the tea leaves is
called Putting Above. 春秋中投
夏上投 冬下投 In
spring and autumn one should use the method called
Putting in the Middle; in
summer the one known as Putting Above; and in winter
Putting Below. 1[c行](m有)
2[c湯後](m後湯) 10頌 飮 茶 On
drinking tea 飮茶以客少爲貴 When
drinking tea, the fewer guests there are, the better it
is. 客衆則喧 If
there are many guests, they will be noisy 喧則雅趣乏矣 and
if there is noise, refinement will be lacking. 獨啜曰神 Drinking
alone is said to be divine; 二客曰勝 two
people drinking is said to be excellent; 三四曰趣 three
or four people drinking is said to be elegant; 五六曰泛 five
or six people drinking is said to be normal; 七八曰施 seven
or eight people drinking is said to be charitable. 11頌 香 Fragrance 茶有眞香
有蘭香 有淸香 有純香 In tea there are True
Fragrance, Orchid Fragrance, Clear Fragrance, and Pure
Fragrance. 表裏如一曰
純香 When outside and inside
are identical, that is called Pure Fragrance. 不生不[熱](熟)1曰淸香 When it is not raw and
not burned, it is called Clear Fragrance. 火候均停曰
蘭香 When evenly heated, it is
called Orchid Fragrance. 雨前神具曰
眞香 When the tea has the
special quality of leaves picked before Kog-u, it is
called True Fragrance. 更有含香漏
浮香間香 In addition there are
also vague fragrance, leaking fragrance, lacking
fragrance, 此皆不正之
氣 but these are all
inappropriate names for tea. 1[c熱](m熟) 12頌 色 Color 茶以淸翠爲勝 In
tea, a jade-green color is considered the finest. 濤以藍白爲佳 For
the froth, pale green is said to be good. 黃黑紅昏俱不入品 Yellow,
black, red or dark twilight colors do not belong to
good tea. [雲](雪)1濤爲上 Froth
like white snow appearing in the cup is a sign of the
tea’s quality. 翠濤爲中 Jade-green
froth is a sign of medium quality. 黃濤爲下 Yellow
froth is a sign of low quality. 新泉活火 煮茗玄工 Fresh spring water
and a well-burning
fire ensure profound mastery. 玉茗[水](氷)2濤 當杯絶[枝](技)3 Jade-like
tea and ice-like froth reveal perfect mastery. 1[c雲](m雪)
2 [cm水](o氷) 3[cm枝](o技) 13頌
味 Taste 味以甘潤爲
上
Regarding taste, sweet
and mild are best; 苦[滯](澁)1爲下 if the taste is bitter
and astringent, it is bad. 1[c滯](m澁) 14頌 點染失眞 Losing
tea’s true nature by contamination 茶自有眞香
有眞色 有眞味 Tea
of itself has true fragrance, color, and taste. 一經點染
便失其眞 If
tea is once contaminated with something else, it loses
its true quality. 如水中着鹹 茶中着科 If
the water is brackish or if there is some foreign
substance in the tea, 碗中着[菓](果)1
皆失眞也 or a trace of fruit in
the tea cups, it loses its true quality. 1[c菓](m果) 15頌 茶變不可用 Tea
that has deteriorated must not be used 茶始造則靑翠 When
tea is first made, its color is jade-green. 收藏不得其法
一變至綠 However,
if stored in the wrong way, it changes to a green color, 再變至黃 三變至黑 四變至白 it
then changes to yellow, thirdly to black, and fourthly
to white. 飮之則寒胃 If
one drinks deteriorated tea, the stomach becomes cold 其至瘠氣成積 until eventually
one’s energy is
depleted and bad effects accumulate. 16頌 品 泉 The
grades of spring water 茶者水之神 水者茶之體 Tea
is the spirit of water and water is the body of tea. 非眞水
莫顯其神 Without
good water, tea cannot produce its spirit, 非精茶
[莫](曷)1窺其體 if
the tea is not carefully made, how will it be
possible to discern its body? 山頂泉淸而輕 Water
from a mountain-peak spring is pure and light, [水](山)2下泉淸而重 water
from a spring at the foot of a hill is pure but heavy, 石中泉淸而甘 water
emerging amidst rocks is pure and sweet, 砂中泉淸而洌 water
emerging from sand is pure and cold, 土中泉淡而白 water
emerging from soil
is clean and plain, 流於黃石爲佳 water
flowing from yellow rocks is good, 瀉出靑石無用 water
draining from dark rocks cannot be used; 流動者兪於安靜 flowing
water is better than still water. 負陰者[眞](勝)3於(向)4陽 Water
emerging in a shady
place is truer than that in a sunny place. 眞[原](源)5無味 眞水無香 True
spring-water has no taste and true water no smell. 1[c莫](m曷) 2[cm水](o山) 3[cm眞](o勝) 4(cmx o向) 5[cm原](o源) 17頌 井水不宜茶 Well water is not
appropriate for tea 茶經云
山水上 江水[下](次)1 The Classic of Tea says
: "Mountain water is superior, river water is less good,
井水最下矣 and well water is
worst." 第一方不近(江)2 Firstly, if no river is
nearby 山卒無泉水 and no mountain with a spring of water, 惟當[春](多)3積梅雨 one should use only
water stored from the plum (monsoon) rains of that
spring season 其味甘和
乃長養萬物之水 since its flavor is sweet and harmonious;
it is water that makes
everything grow. 雪水雖淸 性感重陰 Water
from melted snow is clear but
it feels heavy and dark. 寒[入](人)4 脾胃不宜多積 It makes the
spleen and stomach
cold, so it is not good to store much. 1[cm下](o次)
2(cmx o江) 3[cm春](o多)
4[cm入](o人) 18頌 貯 水
On
storing water 貯水甕
須置陰庭中 The
jar for storing water must be put in a shady room; 覆以紗帛
使承星露之氣 it
should be covered by silk gauze, so that it absorbs the
essence of the stars
and dew 英靈不散
神氣常存 then
its divine quality will not be lost, its spirit will
always remain. 假令壓之以木石 If
the cover is pressed down by wood or stone, 封以紙若
曝于日下 if
the jar is sealed with paper or bamboo husks, or if it
is exposed to sunlight, 則外耗散神 then at
the very least its spirit will be scattered and
lost; 內閉其氣 水神幣矣 at the
very most its energy will be blocked and its
spirit will spoil. 飮茶惟貴 夫茶鮮水靈 In
drinking tea, the things that should be taken most
seriously are the freshness
of the tea and the spirit of the water. 茶失其鮮 If
the tea loses its freshness 水失其靈 or
the water loses its spirit, 則與溝渠何異 how will it be different
from ditch water? 19頌 茶 具 On tea
utensils 桑苧翁(桑苧陸羽之號) Sang
Zhu the Sage (a pseudonym for Lu Yü) 煮茶用銀瓢 used
a silver cauldron for making tea [調](謂)1過於奢侈 Finding
that too luxurious, 後用磁器 又不能[耐](持)2久 he
used a ceramic cauldron later. Since
this, however, was not durable, 卒歸於鐵 he
finally reverted to using an iron cauldron. 愚意銀者(宜)3 貯朱樓華屋 I
think that a silver cauldron might be reserved for use
in a luxuriously
appointed mansion. 若山茅齋舍 惟用錫瓢 Someone
living in a thatched hut in the hills would have used
a pot made of pewter. 亦無損於(香)4色
味
(但)5銅鐵忌之 That
does not affect the color or taste; but bronze and
iron should be avoided. 1[c調](m謂) 2[c耐](o持)
3(cx m宜) 4(cmx o香)
5(cmx o但) 20頌 茶 盞 About tea
cups 盞以雪白者爲上 For
tea cups, snow white is considered the best; 藍白者 不損茶色次之 pale celadon is
next best because
it does not harm the color of the tea. 21頌 拭 盞
布 About
the wiping cloth 飮茶前後 俱用細布麻拭盞 Before
and after drinking tea, one should use a cloth made of
fine hemp or jute to
wipe the cups. 其他[物](易)1穢 不[堪](宜)2用 Other kinds of cloth are
unsuitable because they are easily soiled. 1[cm物](o易)
2[c堪](o宜) 22頌 分茶盒 About
the tea caddy (This
chapter is found in the Chinese texts but in none of
the Korean versions) 以錫爲之
從大壜中分用用盡再取 The tea is put into a
large container made of pewter. When it is all used up
more is added. 23頌 茶 衛 The
rules governing tea 造時精
藏時燥 When
tea is being dried, it should be done carefully; when
tea is being stored, it
should be kept dry; 泡時潔 when
tea is being prepared, it should be done cleanly. 精燥潔
茶道盡矣 When all is careful, dry
and clean, the Way of Tea is truly achieved. * 衛
is the character in c and m but
other Chinese texts have 道
(‘way’) 24. 跋文 Epilogue 戊子雨際, 隨師於方丈山七佛啞院,
One rainy day in
1828, I followed
my master up Mount Pangjang and into the 亞-shaped
meditation room at Ch’ilbul. 謄抄下來, 更欲正書而因病未果,
After I had
copied (this text) I
came down; I wanted to rewrite it tidily but was
prevented by sickness. 修洪沙彌, 時在侍者房,
欲知茶道正抄,
亦病未終, Luckily, the
young novice Suhong
was in the office. He expressed a wish to learn the
Way of Tea so he began to
copy out the text neatly but then he too fell sick and
could not finish. 故禪餘强命管城子成終, 有始有終,
何獨君子爲之,
Therefore I
reluctantly took up the
brush between sessions of meditation and finished it.
It is not only Confucians
who know the saying that “there is a beginning and
there is an end.” 叢林或有趙州風, 而盡不知茶道,
故抄示,
可畏. In study temples
too they are
accustomed to drinking tea in the
manner of Zhaozhou but
nobody knows about the Way of Tea. . I have copied
this so that those who come
later can read it. 庚寅 中春
休菴病禪 雪窓擁爐 謹書 In the spring of
1830, a sick monk
in a hermitage, snow on the windows, hugging the
stove, I composed this
epilogue. |